August 24, 2006

Naked Female Centaur Tattoos

In my experiences traveling, I have discovered one hard and fast rule. The more difficult a place is to get to, the more beautiful. This is certainly true of the southern coast of Albania. This past week I made the effort to get down to Dhermi, a small beach town between Vlore and Sarande, and it was absolutely amazing, the best beaches I have seen in Albania yet.


Oh, but according to the rule, Dhermi's beauty is dependent on it's remoteness, and I can tell you that getting there and back was not an easy endeavor. Getting there, my friend and I were able to catch a public bus from Fier that would take us down. Once on the bus, I could quickly see that all of the seats were occupied, so a lady with her young son was kind enough to share her seat with me. So I was on my way to Dhermi with at least one butt cheek on the seat. After about 5 minutes of hearing Albanian music mixed with babies crying, I put on my headphones. Unfortunately, headphones do nothing for blocking out smells. The three young kids sitting around me had all promptly started puking, and I can only equate the smell to what Tim Robbins must have experienced in the sewers under Shawshank Prison.

Luckily, it turns out that topless female centaur tattoos are a good diversion for passing a long bus ride. The Greek man across the aisle was sporting what can be mildly referred to as a "bad tattoo", so I spent the remainder of the ride concocting adventures for half-woman, half-horse creature. I finally decided that she had been in love with Pan (the half-man, half-goat), but that her parents would not accept her relationship with another species, so she was riding off to take revenge. Before you put me in a straightjacket, you try riding a bus for 5 hours in Albania.

Eventually we made it, and Dhermi was amazing. The water was clear, clean and just the right temperature.

Finally, a special thanks to Etienne and Laura from Paris for giving a couple of poor Peace Corps Volunteers a ride back to Vlore.

I have put up my pictures from Dhermi and some others I have taken on my Flickr site.

August 12, 2006

Cigarettes and Seahorses: Revisited

As you can see, my last post "“Cigarettes and Seahorses"” has generated a fair amount of debate and differing viewpoints. If I said I didn'’t expect this, I would be lying. However it has surprised me by making me think about the issue of criticism.

Let me start by saying that I regret having included a couple of points in the post. First, the comment about Albanians having nowhere to go was a poor generalization. Albania, like anywhere, has people who are extremely industrious and entrepreneurial and people who are just plain lazy and unmotivated. Fortunately, there seem to be more of the former rather than the latter, particularly in places like Tirana and Durres. Unfortunately, there also seem to be a large number of people who have the ability and motivation to do something big, but because of circumstances, they have few outlets or opportunities to put their talents to full use. This is particularly the case with kids who cannot afford (or are not allowed) to continue their education.

Secondly, my comments about arranged marriages and blood feuds were cheap shots. It is unfair to criticize a people about cultural artifacts that, while still practiced by a few, are not accepted by a large majority. (These regrets really became clear as I talked with some of my close Albanian friends. My friends are quite patient with me.)

Now thoughts on criticism…

I think that how criticism is given and how it is received changes between cultures. Certainly Americans and the Japanese have different ways of criticizing and different ideas of what it means to "“save face"” or protect another person'’s honor. This being said, I also think there are some universal truths to criticism. If you will indulge me, I will try to explain some of those truths here.

  1. Criticism is essential. Any person or culture that avoids criticism is doomed to self-destruct. Looking at our deficiencies is essential for us to improve and move forward. One commenter put it well when he/she said, "The only way we can progress is by identifying and acknowledging our weaknesses and trying to find practical solutions to them."” Failing to criticize others when you see something wrong is a disservice to them and to yourself.

  1. You have to see the whole picture. It is much easier to make quick judgments about people, but when you criticize without looking at the whole picture, you tend to miss a lot and sound like an idiot. There may be a surface problem that is easy to criticize, but perhaps there is an underlying reason for that problem. This leads to my next truth.

  1. Criticizing a brother is easier than criticizing a stranger. This is true for two reasons. First, you know the people who are close to you. When you know the person or people, you are more likely to see the whole picture; the history, the culture, the underlying circumstances. Plus when criticism comes from a person who is known and trusted, it is more readily taken to heart than criticism from an outsider. When someone we don't know or who doesn'’t seem to "“be like us"” offers criticism, it is rather easy to dismiss it, whether the criticism is true or not. When the person has lived what you've lived and knows what you know, you are more easily convinced of both that person'’s authority to criticize and his/her trustworthiness.

  1. Positive criticism is always more productive than negative criticism. People get tired of repeatedly hearing what is wrong with them. Unless the criticism comes with an attempt at providing a solution or with some point of encouragement, the chances of the criticism truly being heard greatly diminish. One commenter said, "“It always amazes me that foreigners who come to another country tend to emphases the "dark " sides of a culture..... Why no generositybout genereosity, sense of community, respect, joy, positivity there is in the albanian cutlure...?" I would agree, unfortunately we tend to look at the negative in order to help us feel better about ourselves. I would also add that we should look at both the positive and the negative. Ignoring one or the other helps no one.

I hope this makes sense because I am still trying to process it all as I write this.

Finally, with the knowledge that Americans should worry about America and Albanians should worry about Albania, here is some criticism from an American for any Albanians who may read this.

I know that you probably hear about it a lot, but you really must do something about the littering problem plaguing your country. If you truly are concerned about how others perceive Albania, cleaning up your country is perhaps one of the best steps you can make. Whenever I meet foreigners who are here in Albania, either traveling or on business, the first thing they always mention is how much trash there is and how dirty everything seems. The consensus among foreigners seems to be that if Albanians don'’t respect their country enough to keep it clean, then why should we respect Albania?

So I beg you, Albanians, do something about it! Albania is a beautiful country with great people, but right now there are few people who are able to look past the trash and see that. Tell your family and friends not to litter. Heck, tell a stranger. When you see people litter on the street, stop them and tell them why they shouldn'’t. The problem is not too big to be solved.

August 08, 2006

Cigarettes and Seahorses

To: Albania

cc: Sali Berisha, Edi Rama, Skanderbeg, Ismail Kadare, Jim Belushi

Subject: Bad Press

Hello Albania. I hope this letter finds you well. Sorry about all the bad press coverage you have been getting in the media lately. Those Brits have no right to criticize your citizens' "bombed-out" teeth. I don't really have any experience in public relations, but I thought that maybe I could help you avoid future embarrassing exposes. So, here a few ideas on how to become a better nation.

1. Stop Littering

I think I have written about this before, but it still happens and it still makes me mad so you are going to hear about it again whether you like it or not.

It was a beautiful day here last Tuesday, so I made my way out to the beach at Porto Romano just outside of Durres. The peoplewatching had been going smoothly for a while when I spotted a man heading into the water. He was smoking (no surprise there), but as he had walked out to where his hips were in the water, he casually flipped his half-smoked cigarette into the water beside him.

Shocking!! That's probably your reaction. I know this because that is how I felt the first 20 times I saw people throw trash into the sea. I suppose the people just assume that the fish like to eat cigarettes, napkins, and half-eaten corncobs.

I guess what I am saying is, please tell your citizens to stop complaining about how dirty and trashed their country is while they throw trash on the street.

2. Give Pedestrians the Right-of-Way

I enjoy the adrenaline rush that comes with fear as much as the next guy, but I really don't need a rush every time I leave my house. Where are all the people in such a hurry to go to that they need to put my life in danger? Surely they can wait an extra five minutes for their coffee. I think Albanians are some of the best in the world at going nowhere fast.

Also, if there happens to be a giant pot hole in the middle of the road (like the one in front of my house), please don't drive on the sidewalk. Again, I understand your need to hurry to nowhere, but what happens when you make pot holes in the sidewalk?

3. Turn Down the Music at Your Weddings

Marriage definitely deserves to be celebrated (especially when it has been pre-arranged), but is it really necessary to include the entire city in your celebration? Don't get me wrong, I really like the same 5, polyphonic songs you play repeatedly for 7 hours straight, but around about 3 a.m. it may be considerate to lower the volume level from ear drum shattering to simply window rattling.

I hope this is helpful.

Sincerely,
David Sheern

P.S. If you want to start a blood feud with that Gill guy in Anglia, I know some guys who know some guys.